RISI E BISI

Risi e Bisi
"Rice and Peas"- Venetian style

As a rule, I’m a fairly punctual person. But for reasons that I will explain, I am devoting this column to one of the most famous of all Venetian dishes traditionally served on April 25 to celebrate the birthday of St. Mark, patron saint of Venice. Rice and peas, or “Risi e bisi” in Venetian dialect is a luxurious rice soup - minestra - celebrating springtime and the arrival of the tiny sweet green peas from the islands in the lagoon to the Rialto market. The simple reason that I am writing about this sumptuous creation now is that young peas in their pods are not really found in our markets until late May to early June. And I must in all honesty add, that in the absence of freshly picked peas, frozen “tiny tender” peas will provide a more than adequate substitute. Once peas have been standing in stores for a few days, their intense, juicy sugariness dwindles into a not so pleasant grainy starch.

Cooks in the Veneto would use the variety of rice called Vialone Nano instead of Arborio or other short grain rice varieties. It belongs to the semifino rice category and looks like a stubby, small chipped grain. This recipe does not utilize the traditional risotto technique when you have to add broth slowly to the rice, stirring patiently as it is absorbed, ladleful by ladleful. Here, to get the texture that is something between a soup and a risotto, you add all of the broth at once and let it simmer. And while most modern versions call for chicken broth, a hard-line Venetian would cook the rice in a broth sweetened with the shells and shoots of the tender fresh peas. I’m not at all bothered by a bit of corruption of this dish. In fact, I’m delighted to know that at the end of a long day, I can make a quick and extremely delicious dinner without much frenzied preparation.

Risi e Bisi (serves 4)

2 T. olive oil
2 oz. pancetta or Prosciutto di Parma, finely minced or ground
1 medium onion, minced
3 C. fresh shelled peas (about 3 lbs.) or 1 lb. frozen “tiny tender” peas, not defrosted
6 C. chicken broth or vegetable broth or broth made by simmering pea pods and shoots for 1
hour
5 T. unsalted butter
1 C. Vialone Nano short grain rice
2 T. fresh Italian parsley, leaves only, minced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 C. Parmigiano- Reggiano cheese, grated

1. Heat the olive oil and 2 T of the butter in a medium-size casserole set over low heat. When the butter is melted, add the pancetta or prosciutto and onion and cook, stirring until the onion is tender but not brown.
2. Stir in the peas, 1 T. of parsley and 1 cup of the broth, season with salt and pepper, and cook 10 minutes uncovered.
3. Pour in the remaining 5 cups of broth and when it reaches a boil add the rice. Mix very well, reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Taste and stir in more salt if needed and freshly ground black pepper. The rice should be cooked through but not mushy. The final texture should be something between a real risotto and a thick bean soup.
4. Remove the casserole from the heat; add the remaining butter, cheese and parsley, mixing very well.
5. Serve immediately in warmed soup plates.

Vialone Nano rice available at:
Salumeria Italiana
151 Richmond St.
Boston, MA
Tel (617) 523-8743
www.salumeriaitaliana.com

Fresh peas available at:
Alba Produce
18 Parmenter St.
Boston, MA
no telephone

first published in the "The North End News" May 16, 2007

FAVA BEANS - A harbinger of spring!

FAVA BEANS
I love introducing people on tour to fresh broad fava beans – fave fresche. The culture of the fava bean is thought to have originated in the eastern Mediterranean in late Neolithic times and in the Middle Ages the fava bean was a staple food throughout the Mediterranean. Favas were the only bean known to Europe until the discovery of the New World. In Central and Southern Italy fava beans are a harbinger of spring, as they are the first green vegetables to come out of gardens after a cold winter.

The pods look like giant thick green beans - slightly fuzzy, long and plump varying in length from 6-12 inches. They should be heavy with a hint of rounded beans inside. Although best when used within a few days, they will keep up to a week in a plastic bag in the refrigerator crisper drawer. When very young (2-3 inches long) they can be eaten whole, but we rarely see these in our market. We are most accustomed to eating the immature seed inside the larger pod. To shell the favas, pull off the “string” of the pod and press open the seams. You will see 4-6 beans that look like small to medium sized lima or butter beans nestled in a white fuzzy lining that vegetable expert Elizabeth Schneider describes as cushioned sleeping bags for the beans. Each bean is enclosed in a second thick, inner skin, which becomes quite bitter and tough as the favas mature. Taste a bean with the skin and see for yourself if you want to skin them.

To skin the beans, drop them into boiling water for a couple of minutes to loosen the skin. Drain and plunge them into ice cold water to stop the cooking. Use your thumbnail to break open the skin and pop out the bean.

From Tuscany to Sicily they are enjoyed most when served raw either as an antipasto to begin or as dessert to end the meal. I love to serve them raw as an antipasto, piled high in a basket and on the top of the beans I place a wedge of fresh pecorino or provolone cheese with a small paring knife. Perfect for casual company; while you’re chatting, just pull out the fat beans from their plush, cushioned pod and if you prefer a bitter taste, eat the beans unpeeled or peel each bean for a sweeter flavor. Savor the slightly bittersweet, nutty bean with the cheese and of course--a glass of red wine. Fresh favas can also be sautéed, and they make a wonderful addition to soups, salad, pasta, risotto and frittatas.

A Word of Caution and Interest - there is a very rare disease called favism, which is a serious reaction to eating raw fava beans or breathing their pollen, causing severe hemolytic anemia. The disease affects certain ethnic groups of Mediterranean descent and is most common in males and most severe in infants and children. The risk of eating cooked fava beans is apparently quite small. Fava beans are mentioned in a famous line from the movie The Silence of the Lambs, when Hannibal Lecter says "I ate his liver with some fava beans and a nice Chianti", which was voted as the #21 best-known movie quote by the American Film Institute.

FRITTEDA
This favorite Sicilian vegetable medley celebrates spring.

2 lbs. fresh green peas, shelled
2 lbs. young fava beans, shelled
12 small artichokes, well trimmed, cleaned and cut into quarters
4-5 spring onions with the green tops, thinly sliced
1 1/2 C. water
1/2 C. olive oil
salt and pepper
2 T. white wine vinegar
pinch of sugar

1. Put the olive oil in a heavy saucepan, add the spring onions and 1/2 C of water. Cook over a medium flame, stirring often until the onions become translucent and all the water evaporates.
2. Add the artichokes with 1/2 C. of water and salt to taste. Cover and cook over medium heat for about 5 minutes.
3. Add the fava beans and another 1/2 C. of water. Cover and cook for 5 more minutes.
4. Add the peas, lower the heat, cover the pan and simmer another 5 minutes or until all the vegetables are tender, stirring occasionally.
5. Season with salt and pepper; add the vinegar and sugar, and cook uncovered for 2-3 minutes until the vinegar has evaporated. Refrigerate and serve cool or at room temperature.

Option: omit the vinegar and serve warm with a dollop of ricotta cheese.

first published in the "The North End News" May, 2007

Provolone and fresh pecorino cheese available at:
Salumeria Italiana
151 Richmond St.
Boston, MA
Tel (617) 523-8743
www.salumeriaitaliana.com

Fresh fava beans available at:
Alba Produce
18 Parmenter St.
Boston, MA
no telephone