SUMMER TOMATOES
The tomato is probably the most symbolic of foods associated with Italian cuisine; more tomatoes are eaten in Italy than any other vegetable. In reality the tomato did not enter the Italian pantry until the late 16th century when the Spanish brought it into the country. It was then described as a magical and medicinal plant to be used as a cure for various ailments as well as in the preparation of magical potions and aphrodisiacs. The first tomatoes introduced to Europe were yellow; hence the Italians called the fruit pomodoro or ‘golden apple’. The first red tomato arrived in Europe in the 18th century, brought to Italy by two Jesuit priests. Early literature of the tomato is rather scanty and it shows how slowly and with what difficulty the fruit was introduced into everyday Italian cooking. It didn’t become a common food until the 19th century when tomatoes were cultivated for large scale processing. The cultivation, processing and canning of tomatoes, mostly based in the region of Campania, has become one of Italy’s largest agriculture-based industries. However, it is interesting to note that in 1835, it was William Underwood of Boston, who opened the first factory for the canning of tomatoes.
Tomatoes come in all shapes, sizes and colors and were the first genetically engineered food approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration. These pristine looking but virtually flavorless tomatoes ripen on the vine longer and remain firm enough to ship cross-country. China is the largest producer of tomatoes (125 million tons in 2005) followed by the US and Turkey.
In summer, it’s hard not to eat tomatoes every day. Markets are now rich with countless varieties varying in size from the 5 inch across scarlet beefsteaks to the tiny dainty currant size, no larger than your baby fingernail. The popular huge lumpy heirlooms such as the mild yellow (lower in acid than red) to mauve-hued Brandywines, and Cuore di Bue, Green Zebras, and Prudence Purples are favored for cooking and salads. Small cherry and grape tomatoes are particularly sweet and wonderful for snacks, salads and sauces. The plum varieties are meatier with fewer seeds, less watery and more suitable for tomato sauce. It’s interesting to note that in Italy, a slightly green and underripe tomato is preferred for salads.
Tomatoes are a good source of vitamin C, E and carotene known as lycopene, which gives them their red color. Cooking tomatoes releases the carotene, one of nature’s most powerful antioxidants, making it more readily available to the body. In general, a good tomato with distinct aroma and true freshness is the best bet, no matter what its shape. They should never be bought from a refrigerated case or stored in the refrigerator, which makes them tasteless and mealy. Keep them in a cool corner of the kitchen, stem end down. Because this is the last part of the tomato to ripen, it can support the weight of the ripe tomato without collapsing.
You don’t have to do much to prepare a tomato. You don’t have to peel thin skinned round tomatoes, but plum tomatoes have a thick skin which can turn harsh and bitter when cooked. To peel, cut a cross into the base of the tomato and plunge it into boiling water for a minute, drain and the peel will lift right off. Cut the peeled tomato in half crosswise and with your fingers lift out the seeds, whose bitterness can affect your final dish.
Tomatoes are extensively used raw in salads, sandwiches, soups and pasta dishes. In salads their flavor is intensified and sweetened when allowed to marinate for no more than 30 minutes with a sprinkle of salt and a pinch of sugar to remove their excess water content. When cooked, their acidic properties will enhance other savory flavors. They can be made into a tomato juice, sauce, and soup, as well as baked, broiled, stewed, fried and added to a myriad of dishes, savory and sweet. If you find yourself with an overabundance of tomatoes without the time to preserve them as sauce in jars or bottles, as most Italians families do, simply peel and seed them as described above and pack them in plastic freezer bags to store in the freezer for use when tomatoes are not in season.
In 1705, Francesco Gaudentio provided the first and still most classic Italian recipe for cooked tomatoes in his ‘Panunto Toscano’: “These fruits are similar to apples. They are cultivated in gardens and are cooked in the following way: pick the tomatoes, cut them in pieces and put the pieces in a pan with oil, salt, chopped garlic and wild mint. Stew them, frequently turning the mixture. The dish will be even better if you add a bit of tender molignane (eggplant) or white cucuzze (squash).”
Pomodori Arosti
Baking tomatoes evaporates the water and deepens their flavor. These are delicious on their own or tossed with pasta, added to sautés, soups, and sauces or simply spooned over toasted bread.
6 large red ripe tomatoes slices thickly, horizontally and seeded or 18 plum tomatoes,
halved and seeded
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
4-6 T. extra virgin olive oil
1/4 tsp. sugar
sea salt
1/4 tsp. red hot pepper flakes
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Oil a rimmed baking sheet or baking dish.
Arrange the plum tomatoes cut side up, side by side in the prepared pan and season with salt, pinch of sugar, hot pepper and a drizzle of olive oil. If using sliced large tomatoes arrange half of them in one layer on the bottom of the dish, season them and top with another layer, more seasoning and a good drizzle of olive oil.
Roast uncovered until the water evaporates from the tomatoes and the oil separates, 30-60 minutes. Serve hot or at room temperature, or store in the refrigerator for 5 days or in the freezer for up until the next harvest.
Sugo di Pomodoro – Fresh Tomato Sauce
What could be more classic than pasta served with a basic marinara sauce. This sauce is low in saturated fat and low in calories. Of course it can also be used as a basis for a multitude of variations.
Makes approx 4 cups, enough for 1 1/2 lbs pasta, serving 6-8
4 T. extra virgin olive oil
1 med. onion, coarsely chopped
2 large cloves garlic, lightly smashed
salt and hot red pepper flakes to taste
3 lbs. ripe plum tomatoes cut into large chunks
1/4 tsp. sugar or 1 medium carrot, peeled and minced
1/2 C. packed whole basil leaves or a mixture of basil and oregano
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet; add the sugar/carrots, onions, and sauté until tender and golden, 8-10 min. Then add the garlic and cook the garlic, pressing it into the oil a couple of times to release its flavor, until it barely colors on both sides. Remove and discard the garlic.
Add the tomatoes, increase the heat slightly, stirring occasionally, cook until the tomatoes have become a mush. Pass the sauce through a food mill set over a bowl. Return the puree to the pot. Tear the basil leaves in to the sauce and add salt and hot red pepper. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and, stirring occasionally, simmer until the sauce has thickened – 5-10 minutes.
If you do not have a food mill, begin the recipe with peeled seeded tomatoes, leaving the sauce chunky.
Insalata di Pasta Arrabiata
This great summer pasta dish is a room temperature version of pasta arrabbiata (angry pasta). It derives its name from being made angry by the addition of red hot chili peppers. The chef is allowed the liberty of adding as much as he or she wishes. It is important to use firm, dry, fresh tomatoes that are not too watery.
1/2 C. basil leaves, torn into small pieces
1 sprig fresh rosemary, leaves stripped off and chopped
1/4 C. mint leaves, chopped
1 T. dried oregano
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 C. capers, rinsed and drained
1/2 C. extra virgin olive oil
6 –8 large ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
1 tsp. hot red peppers flakes, or 1 small fresh chili pepper, seeded and minced
1/4 C. grated Pecorino Romano cheese
1 lb. penne pasta
Combine the basil, rosemary, mint, oregano, garlic, and capers in a small bowl. Pour on enough olive oil to cover generously. Combine the tomatoes, hot pepper, and cheese in a large serving bowl.
Cook the penne in boiling salted water until al dente. Drain the pasta, shaking the colander to cool it a bit and transfer it to the serving bowl mixing it with the tomato mixture. Add the herb mixture and toss again. Let stand for up to 4 hours. Taste before serving and add additional salt and olive oil, if necessary, to taste.
Serve at room temperature.
Tomatoes come in all shapes, sizes and colors and were the first genetically engineered food approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration. These pristine looking but virtually flavorless tomatoes ripen on the vine longer and remain firm enough to ship cross-country. China is the largest producer of tomatoes (125 million tons in 2005) followed by the US and Turkey.
In summer, it’s hard not to eat tomatoes every day. Markets are now rich with countless varieties varying in size from the 5 inch across scarlet beefsteaks to the tiny dainty currant size, no larger than your baby fingernail. The popular huge lumpy heirlooms such as the mild yellow (lower in acid than red) to mauve-hued Brandywines, and Cuore di Bue, Green Zebras, and Prudence Purples are favored for cooking and salads. Small cherry and grape tomatoes are particularly sweet and wonderful for snacks, salads and sauces. The plum varieties are meatier with fewer seeds, less watery and more suitable for tomato sauce. It’s interesting to note that in Italy, a slightly green and underripe tomato is preferred for salads.
Tomatoes are a good source of vitamin C, E and carotene known as lycopene, which gives them their red color. Cooking tomatoes releases the carotene, one of nature’s most powerful antioxidants, making it more readily available to the body. In general, a good tomato with distinct aroma and true freshness is the best bet, no matter what its shape. They should never be bought from a refrigerated case or stored in the refrigerator, which makes them tasteless and mealy. Keep them in a cool corner of the kitchen, stem end down. Because this is the last part of the tomato to ripen, it can support the weight of the ripe tomato without collapsing.
You don’t have to do much to prepare a tomato. You don’t have to peel thin skinned round tomatoes, but plum tomatoes have a thick skin which can turn harsh and bitter when cooked. To peel, cut a cross into the base of the tomato and plunge it into boiling water for a minute, drain and the peel will lift right off. Cut the peeled tomato in half crosswise and with your fingers lift out the seeds, whose bitterness can affect your final dish.
Tomatoes are extensively used raw in salads, sandwiches, soups and pasta dishes. In salads their flavor is intensified and sweetened when allowed to marinate for no more than 30 minutes with a sprinkle of salt and a pinch of sugar to remove their excess water content. When cooked, their acidic properties will enhance other savory flavors. They can be made into a tomato juice, sauce, and soup, as well as baked, broiled, stewed, fried and added to a myriad of dishes, savory and sweet. If you find yourself with an overabundance of tomatoes without the time to preserve them as sauce in jars or bottles, as most Italians families do, simply peel and seed them as described above and pack them in plastic freezer bags to store in the freezer for use when tomatoes are not in season.
In 1705, Francesco Gaudentio provided the first and still most classic Italian recipe for cooked tomatoes in his ‘Panunto Toscano’: “These fruits are similar to apples. They are cultivated in gardens and are cooked in the following way: pick the tomatoes, cut them in pieces and put the pieces in a pan with oil, salt, chopped garlic and wild mint. Stew them, frequently turning the mixture. The dish will be even better if you add a bit of tender molignane (eggplant) or white cucuzze (squash).”
Pomodori Arosti
Baking tomatoes evaporates the water and deepens their flavor. These are delicious on their own or tossed with pasta, added to sautés, soups, and sauces or simply spooned over toasted bread.
6 large red ripe tomatoes slices thickly, horizontally and seeded or 18 plum tomatoes,
halved and seeded
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
4-6 T. extra virgin olive oil
1/4 tsp. sugar
sea salt
1/4 tsp. red hot pepper flakes
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Oil a rimmed baking sheet or baking dish.
Arrange the plum tomatoes cut side up, side by side in the prepared pan and season with salt, pinch of sugar, hot pepper and a drizzle of olive oil. If using sliced large tomatoes arrange half of them in one layer on the bottom of the dish, season them and top with another layer, more seasoning and a good drizzle of olive oil.
Roast uncovered until the water evaporates from the tomatoes and the oil separates, 30-60 minutes. Serve hot or at room temperature, or store in the refrigerator for 5 days or in the freezer for up until the next harvest.
Sugo di Pomodoro – Fresh Tomato Sauce
What could be more classic than pasta served with a basic marinara sauce. This sauce is low in saturated fat and low in calories. Of course it can also be used as a basis for a multitude of variations.
Makes approx 4 cups, enough for 1 1/2 lbs pasta, serving 6-8
4 T. extra virgin olive oil
1 med. onion, coarsely chopped
2 large cloves garlic, lightly smashed
salt and hot red pepper flakes to taste
3 lbs. ripe plum tomatoes cut into large chunks
1/4 tsp. sugar or 1 medium carrot, peeled and minced
1/2 C. packed whole basil leaves or a mixture of basil and oregano
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet; add the sugar/carrots, onions, and sauté until tender and golden, 8-10 min. Then add the garlic and cook the garlic, pressing it into the oil a couple of times to release its flavor, until it barely colors on both sides. Remove and discard the garlic.
Add the tomatoes, increase the heat slightly, stirring occasionally, cook until the tomatoes have become a mush. Pass the sauce through a food mill set over a bowl. Return the puree to the pot. Tear the basil leaves in to the sauce and add salt and hot red pepper. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and, stirring occasionally, simmer until the sauce has thickened – 5-10 minutes.
If you do not have a food mill, begin the recipe with peeled seeded tomatoes, leaving the sauce chunky.
Insalata di Pasta Arrabiata
This great summer pasta dish is a room temperature version of pasta arrabbiata (angry pasta). It derives its name from being made angry by the addition of red hot chili peppers. The chef is allowed the liberty of adding as much as he or she wishes. It is important to use firm, dry, fresh tomatoes that are not too watery.
1/2 C. basil leaves, torn into small pieces
1 sprig fresh rosemary, leaves stripped off and chopped
1/4 C. mint leaves, chopped
1 T. dried oregano
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 C. capers, rinsed and drained
1/2 C. extra virgin olive oil
6 –8 large ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
1 tsp. hot red peppers flakes, or 1 small fresh chili pepper, seeded and minced
1/4 C. grated Pecorino Romano cheese
1 lb. penne pasta
Combine the basil, rosemary, mint, oregano, garlic, and capers in a small bowl. Pour on enough olive oil to cover generously. Combine the tomatoes, hot pepper, and cheese in a large serving bowl.
Cook the penne in boiling salted water until al dente. Drain the pasta, shaking the colander to cool it a bit and transfer it to the serving bowl mixing it with the tomato mixture. Add the herb mixture and toss again. Let stand for up to 4 hours. Taste before serving and add additional salt and olive oil, if necessary, to taste.
Serve at room temperature.
