Mercato del Mare

Don’t miss the new fish store that opened in June at 99 Salem Street. I think it’s the prettiest store in the North End - Mercato del Mare. It’s been a couple of years since we have had the opportunity to buy really fresh fish in the neighborhood. Kudos to both Elizabeth Ventura and Keri Cassidy who after having worked in the restaurant industry decided to follow their dream of becoming entrepreneurs in the food business.

First, as you step down from the street into the store you will see a typical European market including details such as black and white tiles, tin ceiling, and butcher block displays. The shellfish sink is filled with a variety of iced mollusks, crustaceans and other marvels of the sea. The showcase highlights the regular Atlantic varieties of haddock, cod, whole red snapper, swordfish, tuna, calamari, salmon, and halibut. Depending on the season and luck of the catch you might find dorado, sardines, and other coveted varieties.

Keri and Elizabeth are committed to purchasing local products whenever possible – such as calamari from Point Judith and sea scallops from Nantucket (both incredibly sweet). Look for fresh sushi, marinated anchovies and seaweed salad delivered daily. There is also a variety of home made prepared foods: lobster rolls, crab salad, clam chowder, lobster bisque, a variety of ready to grill skewered fish and tuna teriyaki.

Party platters can be special ordered and delivered (within reason) – think about a beautiful platter with smoked salmon, bagels and all the traditional garnish. Tuesday is Taco Tuesday with home made fish tacos! Breads are from Sel de La Terre. There’s a rack of shelves brimming with dried pasta, olive oil and other condiments and produce to accompany seafood. Keri and Elizabeth have a commitment to high quality products and service, presented in a casual, open and friendly atmosphere. Don’t be afraid to call on them for cooking tips and seasoning advice.

Please stop buy, welcome them to the neighborhood and treat yourself to some very fresh, healthy seafood.

Mercato del Mare
99 Salem St.
Boston, MA 02113
mercatodelmare@gmail.com
Mon-Fri 10am-8pm
Sat 10am-6pm
Sun noon-5pm or when they run out of fish

August Moon Festival

In Boston’s Chinatown the community is getting ready to celebrate one of the most important dates of the lunar calendar. August 17, 2008 is this year’s date for the August Moon Festival, also known as the Mid-Autumn Festival. The Mid Autumn Festival always falls on the fifteenth day of the eighth lunar month. This is the Chinese harvest festival, and somewhat akin to our Thanksgiving Celebration. It is the time when Chinese traditionally came together to enjoy the fruits of their labor. Families would gather for a traditional harvest feast, and, after the meal go out to view the full harvest moon. Children are given bright colored lanterns to carry.

According to legend, the harvest festival played an important role in establishing the Ming Dynasty as well. From 1280 AD until 1368 AD, China was under the rule of the Mongolian Yuan Dynasty. Under the Mongolians, the Chinese were persecuted an oppressed. It was a pastry that saved them. Officials instructed bakeries to create a pastry to be delivered to all of the Chinese households. People were asked not to eat the pastry until the fifteenth day of the eighth lunar month, during the family gathering to celebrate the harvest. When they cut into the pastries, they discovered secret messages hidden inside. The messages called upon all of the Chinese citizens to rise up and slaughter the Mongolian oppressors that night during the moon viewing. The Mongolians were overthrown, and the Chinese Yuan Dynasty was established.

Today, these pastries are known as Moon Cakes, and are typically sold year-round at traditional Chinese pastry shops, although they still are strongly associated with the Mid-Autumn Festival. Moon Cakes come in a variety of sizes, and with a variety of fillings, such as sweet lotus paste, black bean paste, and mixed nut and candied fruit. Traditional Moon Cakes are somewhat round, which represents both family unity and the unity of the Chinese people in the overthrow of the Mongolian rule. The cakes are made in a wooden mold, which marks the top of the pastry with the baker’s emblem. Boxes of Moon Cakes are displayed in the window of the bakeries around the time of the Mid Autumn Festival, and are often given away as gifts to close friends and relatives. Many Moon Cakes contain a salted duck egg yolk in the center, which symbolizes the full moon. The most expensive pastries have double yolks. (Since Chinese pastries are not considered dessert, and are usually eaten as a snack in the middle of the afternoon along with a cup of tea, many traditional pastries blur the line between sweet and salty). Moon Cakes are traditionally consumed under the light of the full moon.

This year, there will be a celebration of the mid Autumn Festival on Sunday, August 17th, at the Chinatown gateway Arch. The celebration will begin at 10am and end at 5pm.

written by
Jim Becker
Chinatown Guide

Summer Figs

Yes, there’s more to figs than fig leaves and fig newtons. Figs epitomize the Mediterranean--its climate, its food, its way of life. Figs most likely originated in Asia Minor and are thought to be one of the few trees to survive the ice ages. There is said to have been a fig tree in the Garden of Eden, and in fact, the fig is one of the most talked-about fruits in the Bible. Whether or not it was the “forbidden fruit” is debatable, but it is definite that the fig tree provided the first clothing. Figs are grown all over Italy, often intermixed with grape vines and olive, almond and citrus trees. Thanks to the hot climate, Sicilian figs are perhaps the most luscious of all. Anyone who has been to Italy in the late summer would surely remember eating figs, especially if snatched from roadside trees. If you haven’t eaten a fig straight from the tree, you don’t know what a really good fig tastes like! There are about 700 fig varieties, but only about half a dozen are grown in California, our main source of fig supply.

Look for fresh figs at the greengrocer from late June to early October. “The first to come into the market in late June will be the black Mission figs which are a deep purple with pink flesh. They will be followed by what are often called the green figs: Kadota figs with their thick skin and creamy amber green color; Calimyrna figs, noted for their delicious honey-nut-like flavor and tender, golden skin; and the Adriatic fig with its golden-green skin and pale pink flesh,” said “Albee” of Alba Produce on Parmenter Street. “The North End favorite is the Calimyrna,” said Albee, “Probably because it is the most sweet and succulent, reminding people of their summer in Italy.” The popular Calimyrna is the Smyrna variety that was brought to California from Turkey in 1882, and was renamed Calimyrna in honor of its new homeland.

No need to touch figs to see if they are ripe. They don’t ripen once picked, so they must be at their peak when harvested. A short season plus difficulty in transporting make this delicate, highly perishable fruit a high-priced delicacy. Look for unblemished fruit, which exudes beads of honey-like nectar at the blossom base. Ripe figs are extremely delicate, so take great care not to squash the figs on your way home. Use figs as soon as possible, but if you must store them, carefully lay them on a paper towel, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to three days.

Fresh figs are most delicious served on their own, warmed by the sun, eaten slowly and savored. Some people peel figs, or discard the skin, but it is perfectly edible. Trim and discard the stem, which can ooze a bitter liquid. As an antipasto, fresh figs are often paired with Prosciutto crudo or salami. Try them wrapped with a very thin slice of prosciutto crudo, prosciutto affumicato, or pancetta and grilled over the barbecue. They can also be stuffed with a mixture of goat, mascarpone or gorgonzola cheese combined with chopped walnuts, almonds or pistachios. Poached in dry red wine with a hint of cinnamon or nutmeg, they make an excellent accompaniment to grilled sausages, liver, duck and game. For dessert they are fabulous when simply paired with mascarpone, fresh mint and honey. They can also be poached in sweet wine, baked in a crostata or rolled in sugar and baked in the oven until caramelized. Baked figs are fabulous on vanilla or pistachio ice cream.

Buon appetito e buon estate!

PROSCIUTTO CRUDO CON FICHI
Serve this classic antipasto with the finest cured ham from the region of Parma.
8 ripe figs
12 paper thin slices of prosciutto crudo
crusty bread
sweet butter, optional
freshly ground black pepper

Arrange the slices of prosciutto on a serving platter. Wipe the figs with a damp cloth and discard the stem. Cut the figs downward from the stem end into quarters, leaving them attached at the base. Open them up like flowers. Arrange the figs on top of the prosciutto. Serve with bread and sweet butter. Pass the pepper mill for those who like a sprinkle of freshly ground pepper.


FICHI D'ESTATE CON MASCARPONE
This dessert can be prepared in less than 5 minutes and is a perfect ending to a summer meal.
fresh black or white figs
1 T. honey per 2 figs
heavy cream
mascarpone cheese
sugar/honey
fresh mint leaves

Beat the mascarpone with some heavy cream and possibly some sugar or honey to taste. The mixture should be a little less firm but not runny. Place the cheese in a mound in the middle of a serving platter.

The figs must be at room temperature or consider warming them in a 325°F oven for 5 minutes to bring out the perfume in the fruit. Cut the figs lengthwise into halves or quarters depending on their size. Arrange them in a pinwheel fashion outside of the cheese and along the rim of the serving platter. Just before serving, heat some honey to make it easy to pour and drizzle the warm honey over the figs.

Sprinkle with minced fresh mint leaves and garnish the platter with mint sprig tips. Serve each person one or two figs with a dollop of mascarpone cream on the side.

Fresh figs available at:
Alba Produce
18 Parmenter St.
Boston, MA
no telephone

THE ART OF ITALIAN COFFEE

In a world in which there seems little time or social acceptance to permit ourselves small pleasures, one delight – coffee – remains accessible to most everyone and seldom fails to please. Unfortunately, Americans do not understand what people in Europe and the Middle East have always known: Drinking coffee is not about acquiring an energy jolt, but about pausing, reflecting, enjoying and sharing.

It is said that the coffee plant originated in Ethiopia but did not reach Europe for thousands of years. The Arabs are credited with creating the way we drink coffee today but it was the Ottoman Turks, whose vast empire made possible an international exchange of commodities when they brought coffee to the West in the saddlebags of their invading armies. The Dutch laid the groundwork for the East India coffee trade when they introduced the plant into Java in about 1600. European travelers also discovered the beverage while on the Grand Tour, and brought back a taste for it to their home countries. By 1759, Venice counted 206 coffee shops, where coffee was sipped and sold to a mesmerized clientele; 30 of those shops were on Piazza San Marco.

At present coffee is the second most widely used product in the world after oil. It is consumed at the rate of 1400 million cups per day and is the second most popular drink after water.

There are two principal families of coffee plants from the same family but of different natures, producing coffee with different qualities: Coffea Arabica and Coffea Canephora, commonly known as Arabica and Robusta. Arabica contains between 1.1% and 1.7% caffeine, while Robusta may contain up to three times as much (from 2 to 4.5%). Arabica prefers higher altitudes, is more delicate and requires more intense cultivation. Robusta, as its name implies is much more resistant to the tropical climate and to parasites. It is grown at a comparatively lower cost. Arabica coffee has a very fragrant aroma, is mild, well rounded, slightly acidic and often features a hint of chocolate with a pleasing touch of bitterness. Robusta coffees are more astringent, not as aromatic, full-flavored and more bitter.

As Americans have traveled more widely, they have come to appreciate the different tastes and preparations of coffee. If you make your coffee at home, here are a few tips on storing it to keep it fresh. According to the National Coffee Association of USA, the best way to store coffee is airtight and cool in a dark, dry place. A cupboard or pantry is ideal because the light is limited and temperature doesn’t fluctuate much. Roasted coffee begins to lose flavor after a week, ground coffee an hour after grinding. It is wise to purchase coffee in amounts proportionate to how quickly it will be consumed. Remember coffee is porous and moisture is the enemy, so never store coffee in the refrigerator.

Something as simple as coffee underscores the Italian penchant for variety. At home the Italians have little use for the espresso machines that are so popular in America. Most Italian households use the simple stovetop “moka”, that bi-level, two chambered aluminum (preferred) or steel pot in which boiling water from the bottom compartment is forced through the grinds, and collects in the top. But on every street corner, crowds usually gather throughout the day in coffee bars, each person ordering his or her particular concoction. Stimulating but containing less caffeine than any other type of coffee, Caffé espresso or simply said “un caffé” defines the daily rhythm of life in Italy. Prepared at the express order of the customer as its name indicates, this ebony nectar fills half a demitasse and is crowned with a “crema”, reddish-brown foam that floats on the surface. Other variations include: caffe ristretto- just enough coffee to cover the bottom of the cup; caffe lungo – an espresso containing a little more steamed water, usually reaching the brim of the cup; caffe macchiato – espresso “stained” with a few drops of steamed milk; latte macchiato – a glass of hot milk to which a bit of espresso is added; caffe corretto- an espresso corrected with a shot of liquor; caffe e latte – an espresso to which hot milk is added and served in a big cup or a tall glass; caffe freddo – cold, usually sweetened espresso; caffe decaffeinato – espresso made with decaffeinated coffee; doppio – double the normal dose of espresso brewed with the same amount of water; and cappuccino - the well-known combination of espresso topped with steamed, foamy milk. Italians consume cappuccino only in the morning, only a few may dust theirs with unsweetened cocoa – never cinnamon, and the cup is half the size of what we are served in America. It owes its name to the chestnut color of the robes worn by Capuchin monks. An Americano is simply an espresso with hot water added to make a larger cup of coffee and is said to have been invented for American G.I.’s during World War II.

Latte is simply milk, hot or cold, served in a glass. In Italy, syrupy flavorings would combine with mineral water, not coffee. The only thing that an Italian might put into coffee other than milk (and sometimes a shot of liquor) is an enormous amount of sugar.

Preparing a perfect espresso is a ritual of four rules. One must start with a unique blend of perfectly roasted coffee beans, ground to an exact grain, prepared in a clean optimally pressurized machine at the correct temperature by an professionally skilled operator.

Coffee should be treated as a prized commodity, storing it and brewing it with loving care. As long as we continue to do this, we can enjoy a pause, a brief break in the day to stop, renew, reenergize and savor one of life’s pleasures.

How to use a Moka pot - or stovetop espresso maker.
The stovetop espresso maker was invented in Italy in 1933 by Alfonso Bialetti. Ninety percent of the households in Italy own at least one stovetop espresso maker, and most of them have more than one size. They are made in 1-, 3-, 6-, 9- and 12 cup sizes (referring to espresso cups). The more you use your espresso maker, the better your coffee will taste, similar to using a cast iron pan. The best way to clean them is by simply rinsing the pot well with hot water, never use abrasives or wash in the dishwasher. Moka pots require periodic replacement of the rubber seal and the filters and a check that the safety release valve is not blocked.

First unscrew the two halves of the pot. Fill the bottom chamber with fresh water to the level of the valve. Fill the funnel-shaped filter with espresso ground coffee until it is level. Do not pack the coffee or tamper it down. Drop the filter into the bottom and screw the top half tightly onto the bottom. Place the coffee maker on any type of stovetop using medium heat. The water will boil and rise up quickly through the ground coffee, ultimately filling the top chamber with hot espresso. When the lower chamber is almost empty, steam bubbles mix with the upstreaming water, producing a characteristic gurgling noise. Ideally, it should be removed from the heat before it actually starts gurgling. Do not leave the pot on the stove so long that the coffee boils. Brewing should take about 3-5 minutes.

previously published in the North End News

Neighborhood News & Notes

The winter season has brought a few changes to the neighborhood. Some old familiar places have closed and a few new shops have opened. Here's a quick rundown:

(1) Martignetti Liquor Store has closed, now leased by Citizen's Bank. They are putting a few ATM machines on the Hanover St. corner and are leasing the remaining space to Cafe Graffiti (closed the Hanover St. location), Christina DeFalco - a local clothing designer who was originally on Hanover St., Finale - another location for the Boston based dessert cafe and a take-out window for Gigi Gelateria. These stores are expected to open late summer. We will be very excited to welcome Cafe Graffiti to its new location.

(2) Dairy Fresh Candy's has closed and it's future is uncertain although we believe that the business is for sale.

(3) Shake the Tree has relocated on Salem St. closer to Neptune restaurant.

(4) Giovanni Produce, Salem St. has closed and will be replaced with a fish store - Mercato di Mare - sometime this summer.

(5) Trani - the injectable ice cream store on Salem St. has closed to be replaced with a restaurant.

(6) Grezzo - a new raw food restaurant has been getting some great press - on Prince St. where Sage restaurant was.

(7) The Cafe Graffiti spot on Hanover St. will be Cafe Belmondo a cafe/restaurant.

(8) Emilio's Restaurant has been sold to the owner of Strega restaurant.

(9) La Brace restaurant has closed and Paesan's has opened in it's place.

(10) A really cute Cafe L' il Italy has opened across from the Old North church.

(11) The Cozy Corner on Salem St - near the Old North church is now serving some Brazilian dishes.

FLAVORS OF SICILY

I just returned from another fabulous trip to my favorite region of Italy - Sicily. Spring had arrived. The fruit trees cast a pink and white mantel over the hills, the borage flowers bloomed as blue as the sky above, masses of acacia and mimosa veiled the roadsides with sprays of yellow flowers and the countryside rolled green with a new crop of wheat. Situated just 3 miles off the Italian mainland, Sicily is the largest of the Mediterranean islands. It is predominantly mountainous country, with a wealth of coastal beaches. Sicily seems like another country, full of contradictions and extremes. There is nothing subtle about Sicily. It is a place of intense light and extreme darkness, seductive yet shocking. There’s the most stunning scenery of hills lush with vineyards, ancient olive trees and wheat fields, golden groves of citrus fruit, the most beautiful of Greek temples, Roman mosaics and a stream of architectural treasures including amongst others, Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, Norman, Catalan-Gothic and Baroque styles. And then there are eyesores of illegal and ugly new buildings, brutally sited power stations, incomplete highways and forgotten Baroque masterpieces.

But perhaps the greatest contrast of all is between the deliciously innovative cucina povera of the ordinary people to the baroque cuisine of the aristocracy. La cucina Baronale was established in noble kitchens from medieval times to that of the arrival of Spanish aristocracy on the island. Later in the 18th century the aristocratic families adopted an even more sophisticated cuisine when they hired French trained chefs who now incorporated butter, cream and brandy and introduced complex timbales and galatines making for rich, lavish and elaborate dishes.

La cucina povera, the cuisine of the common people could not have been more different. This is the food of the Sicilian housewife who had to improvise a little something out of a lot of nothing. These enviable dishes are straightforward, fresh and seasonal with flavors that seem more powerful, hotter, spicier and sweeter. Their simplicity is elevated by the sheer quality of the seafood from the bountiful surrounding seas and the natural produce that thrives under the strong Sicilian sun.

Sicilian food is living history, a heritage of thousands of years of invading armies from diverse foreign lands. The Greeks came bearing gifts of honey, wine, ricotta and olives and were followed by the rapacious Roman cultivators of wheat, grains and legumes. The Arabs introduced sugar cane, citrus fruits, eggplant, rice, couscous, spices, methods for fishing tuna and swordfish, the ingenious system of irrigation, the unique palate of sweet and sour and the idea for making ices and sorbets. The pasta industry is said to have been started by the Arabs near Palermo in the 12th century, using grain from fields planted earlier by the Romans. Although it’s rare to find people eating in the streets in mainland Italy, Sicilians love for street food, cucina di strada, also reflects the almost 250 years of Arab conquest.

The Normans left a legacy of dried fish (baccala) and the Angevins/French brought sweet shortcrust pastry, onions and stuffed meat rolls. The Spanish invasion brought products from the New World such as tomatoes, peppers, corn, squash, chocolate as well as the love of florid decoration in food presentation. They also introduced the prickly pear, a favorite Sicilian fruit.

The modern Sicilian diet relies on grains, vegetables, herbs and spices, olives and olive oil, fruit, nuts, seafood and cheese. Meats and game are more prominent in the central hills and used in very special dishes, not everyday ones. Sicilians supposedly invented meatballs, polpetti or polpettoni, which are eaten as a main course, though they often appear here with spaghetti as a caricature of Italo-American cuisine. Pasta, usually made from durum wheat, takes many forms, ranging from spaghetti and maccheroni (maccaruna in dialect) to busiati and gnocchi. Most celebrated is pasta con le sarde, with sardines and wild fennel. Other famous pasta dishes include pesto Trapanese with a delicious sauce made of almonds, basil, and tomatoes and Catania’s pasta alla Norma, a rich combination of tomatoes, eggplant and ricotta salata cheese.

Seafood, led by swordfish, tuna, sardines and anchovies are often marinated in oil and herbs, and grilled, roasted, or baked as involtini. Vegetables are so intensely flavored that they are usually served as simply as possible and often constitute a main meal. But in contrast, it is not unusual to find Sicilian cooking at times so vigorous and expressive with the use of anchovies, hot pepper, mint, basil, oregano, citrus, almonds and pistachios as well as classic combinations of capers and green olives, currents and pine nuts, and vinegar and honey.

Sicilian olive oil is prized and now winning international competitions; Sicilian sea salt is often called white gold. Cheeses are most often made from sheep’s milk and can be found in many stages of aging from fresh ricotta to Pecorino Siciliano, whose pungent flavor is often sharpened when laced with peppercorns. Cows milk cheese can be found in the form of Ragusano, mellow and delicate when young, though it may also be aged hard and sharp for grating. Caciocavallo and provola are also popular.

Sicilian wine has now come of age and can compete most favorably on the world market. After years of producing mediocre wines and sweet, sickly Marsala, it has now become a producer of elegant top-class dry, sweet and fortified wines. Some of the leading producers available in our market include Planeta, Regaleali, Donnafugata, Cusumano, Morgante, Palari, and Tenuta delle Terrenere. And if you think all Marsala tastes like the one you cook with, I suggest you indulge in one made by deBartoli.

When it comes to the dessert course, the Sicilians excel themselves. Sicilians have an extreme sweet tooth and most of their pastries are tied to a religious, mystical or historic significance. The queen of desserts is the cassata, a sponge cake, flavored with liquor, layered with ricotta and apricot jam, coated on all sides with marzipan and elaborately decorated with candied fruit. True Sicilian cannoli will make your knees weak. Any decent pastry shop will have a dazzling array of marzipan, almond paste sculpted in the form of fruits or whatever takes the creator’s fancy. The gelato and other frozen desserts are the best in the world.

This article is meant to be a mere introduction to the food of one of the world’s most exciting islands. Sicily is a sensory bombardment, a magical island. The extraordinary cuisine is a mere match to the most exquisite architecture and the traditional graciousness and warm hospitality of the people. I hope that you will have an opportunity to visit this island – you’ll be amazed at what you find there.

CAPONATA
Caponata is one of the most famous agro-dolce dishes of Sicily. Its base is a mixture of fried onions, celery, and eggplant to which sweet peppers, artichokes and asparagus may be added. The mixture has been known to be enriched with lobster, shrimp, small octopus or bottarga. It can also be stuffed inside the belly of a whole fish and roasted. Caponata has been thought to originate as seagoing fare, because it is preserved with vinegar.

1 medium to large eggplant, cut into 3/4 inch cubes
salt
1 C. olive oil
1 large onion, sliced
4 stalks of celery, diced
3 red bell peppers, seeded and slices
2 cup drained plum tomatoes, seeded
S & P
1/2 C. green olives, pitted and coarsely chopped
2 T. raisins or currants, plumped in warm water, drained
2 T. drained capers
1/2 C. wine vinegar mixed with 2 T. sugar
2 tsp. oregano

optional: 2 T grated bitter chocolate or unsweetened cocoa
3/4 C. toasted almonds

Wash the eggplant, cut off the stem and cut into 3/4 in. cubes. Sprinkle with salt and allow to drain. After 30 min. rinse, squeeze dry and pat in paper towels. Sauté in 1 C olive oil until golden brown on all sides. Remove with a slotted spoon and reserve. In the same remaining olive oil, sauté the onion, celery, and peppers until soft and sweet. Add the tomatoes, olives, raisins and capers to the onion mixture and simmer for 5 more min. Correct the seasoning and pour into a serving dish to cool.

Caponata is at its best when refrigerated at least overnight, then brought to room temperature before serving. Sprinkle with toasted almonds before serving. If using cocoa, add it to the vinegar and sugar.

previously published in the North End News April 2008

Chinese New Year

The celebration of Chinese New Year is right around the corner. Prepare to say goodbye to the Year of the Pig, and to usher in the Year of the Rat. Chinese New Year, also known as the Spring Festival, is the most important of the traditional holidays celebrated in countries with a large Chinese population, as well as in cities here in the States with sizable Chinatowns. The actual date of Chinese New Year is determined by the lunisolar Chinese calendar. It begins on the first day of the new year containing a new moon, and ends fourteen days later with a celebration known as the Lantern Festival. In our western Gregorian calendar, Chinese New Year falls on a different date each year, always between January 21, and February 20th. In 2008, it begins on February 7.

The word for “year” in Chinese is “nian”. According to legend, in ancient China the “nian” was a man-eating beast from the mountains, which came out every twelve months to prey on humans. It was thought that the “nian” was sensitive to loud noises and the color red, so people tried to keep it at bay with red colored fireworks. “Guo Nian” means to “celebrate the New Year” but its literal translation is the “passing of the nian”

Red clothing is worn throughout Chinese New Year because it is believed that red will scare away evil spirits and bad fortune. Certain activities are considered to be bad luck during this period. Buying a pair of shoes is bad luck. The word for shoe is similar to the Chinese word for evil. Likewise, it is bad luck to buy a pair of pants, as the word for pants rhymes with the word bitter. Getting a haircut is also taboo. The word for hair rhymes with the word for prosperity, so cutting ones hair is perceived as cutting away prosperity. Sweeping the floor is forbidden on the first day of the New Year, as it is symbolic of sweeping away good fortune and luck.

Conversely, certain activities are thought to bring good fortune. Eating candy for example ensures one of a “sweet” year.

On New Year’s Eve, it is common for Chinese to hold a reunion dinner with other members of the family both near and far. The reunion dinner is traditionally served at the home of the most senior member of the family. Red packets known as “Hong Bao” are distributed during the reunion dinner. These packets often contain money in certain denominations that reflect good luck. They are passed out from elderly or married people to unmarried adults and children. Fish is often prepared for this meal, but not eaten completely, the remainder being stored overnight. “May there be surpluses” sounds the same as “May there be fish”. In the north of China, Peking Ravioli are consumed during the celebrations. Many eastern Chinese eat “Nian Gao” a sticky rice cake, because its name is a homophone for “a more prosperous year”.

On the first day of the New Year it is customary to eat only vegetarian food, as it is considered bad luck to take the life of animals on this day. A traditional dish known as Lo Hon Jai consists of many ingredients, all thought to bring good fortune for the new year. Fa Cai for example, is a kind of seaweed whose Chinese name literally means “hair vegetable” but also rhymes with “get rich”. Fa Cai is always one of the ingredients in Lo Hon Jai. You may find this dish on restaurant menus listed as “Buddha’s Delight”.

Each new year is associated with one of the twelve animals of the Chinese zodiac. These include the Rat, Ox, Tiger, Rabbit, Dragon, Snake, Horse, Sheep, Monkey, Rooster, Dog, and Pig. Rats are seen as leaders, pioneers and conquerors, and are associated with aggression, wealth, charm and order. They are believed to be hard-working and systematic. People born under this sign are seen to have great leadership skills, and a lot of charisma. They are able to find their way through obstacles and adapt to various circumstances. On the negative side, they can be very obstinate and controlling, insisting on having things their way, whatever the cost. On the whole however, the positive attributes of the rat outweigh the negative.

This season, the festivities in Chinatown conclude on Sunday, February 17th, from 10am to 6pm when there will be a parade and traditional Lion Dance on the plaza in front of the Chinatown gate. This event is open to the public.

Written by Jim Becker
Boston Chinatown Tour Guide